Info on Weed Control in Nova Scotia

Understanding how our weed treatments actually work in Nova Scotia is key to understanding how and when to apply them. 

For ornamentals and residential properties – we have one type of “Selective” weed control product available to us. Yes, one. This is called Fiesta (Chelated Iron - FeHEDTA). Unlike the types of systemic pesticides we had years ago (Prior to 2012) – Fiesta has a very different mode of action. 

Dicots – Like Dandelions absorb considerably more Iron than Monocots (Turf). When applied to the foliage, the absorbed Iron oxidizes, causing leaf necrosis which in turn, kills the "foliage". 

The thing to understand is that this only kills the foliage that it touches and does not travel through the plant (Like a systemic) to kill the root and therefore mostly needs to be re-applied as the weed tries to regrow. 

Where weeds are young and have new roots that don’t have enough energy to re-grow – Fiesta will be effective. Where the weed is already established and has a strong root system, it’s unlikely that one application will be able to kill the plant completely but will certainly suppress it.  

It isn't the complete solution. Lots of the weeds we struggle with cannot be fully eliminated by Fiesta alone. Wild Violets, Creeping Charlie, Goutweed, and Plaintain are some examples of weeds that either need multiple applications in short succession or require a multistaged approach that includes changing growth conditions, altering cultural practices and physical intervention to gain control. Weeds with complex rhizomatous root systems are impossible to control with Fiesta and do require specialist treatments. Goutweed would be a perfect example of this and would require a bespoke control plan. 

Learn more about this below!

We can pretty much define a weed as a plant that grows where we don't want it to and provides competition with cultivated plants. They're far more adapted to challenging conditions and will grow pretty much anywhere. Hence, I had a Dandelion sprout from a small pile of soil in the corner of my truck bed last year. Kudos I reckon!

The key isn't what to apply, it's what can we change to create an environment that doesn't promote their growth... but instead encourages our cultivated species to thrive.

Mouse-ear Chickweed and Moss are great examples of common lawn weeds that can be greatly affected by our cultural practices and environmental conditions. 

Mouse-Ear Chickweed loves compact, sunny locations that are highly fertilized. It doesn't root deeply and instead spreads along the surface of the soil. It's promoted by shallow watering, high nitrogen fertilizers, alkaline soils and consistently cutting too short. 

By regularly cutting the lawn at a higher height, you limit its access to sunlight and promote the turf to thicken up and crowd it out. Keeping the soil PH slightly below neutral (7) and infrequent, deep watering also helps to maintain conditions that are not preferable to its growth. If the soil is compact, doing a core or liquid aeration to loosen the soil will also help. 

Moss thrives in shady, damp areas, generally with a low soil PH. Soil compaction promotes standing water through lack of drainage which contributes to its growth. You'll generally find it abundant at the lower sections of lawns where water runs to. Under trees, along fence lines, and below downspouts are all common places to find growth. Most types of Moss are not tolerant of high heat and sun and will die during the summer months. 

In areas that are permanently shaded and stay moist for the majority of the year - there isn't a huge amount you can do to prevent Moss from growing. Those types of conditions are difficult for most plants to thrive in and frankly, Moss is a really good solution for that type of area as it's low to the ground, does not require mowing and will fill in the space, becoming the dominant species.

For areas where Moss might be thriving due to PH issues or cultural practices like shallow, frequent watering - you can very easily deter it by simply changing those practices and seeding with turf that will thrive there. Applications of Iron-based herbicides will also kill off Moss but bear in mind, if the Moss is present in large areas -  the area would need to be seeded immediately afterwards to stop other weeds from taking over. Nature does an alarmingly efficient job of filling in bare soil! 

All of that being said

Herbicides do not provide a complete solution. Lawns that have vast weed infestations cannot be fixed in the long term by just applying more and more herbicides. They will provide short-term suppression but if the conditions encouraging weed growth do not change - it'll be a never-ending battle. 

Herbicides intelligently applied at the right time, and for the right reasons will keep new growth in check. 

Soil Focus

Focusing on the soil is key. Healthy soil with a thriving microbiome will always provide the plant with what it needs when it needs it. It'll stay aerobic, and well-drained with an equal dominance of Bacterial and Fungal communities, keeping disease and pathogens in check. 

Each Weed Treatment includes:

• Liquid Calcium (Non PH adjusting)
• Molasses (Bacterial Feed, Nutrients & Surfactant)
• Kelp
• Humates
• Fiesta Chelated Iron Based Herbicide (PCP 29535)
• Soy-derived Amino Complex Nitrogen

My suggestion is always to do two in short succession in either Spring or Fall. 

Due to Fiesta having potential inhibiting effects on seed germination - doing the treatments together allows the possibility of doing seeding at the opposite end of the season. So, if you hit the weeds in Spring, you'll be able to Seed in Fall. 

For severe infestations - 4 applications throughout the year would be advisable. I would however also recommend booking a consult to have an evaluation done to see if there might be a better way to handle the specific species.

Expectations

Depending on moisture levels, heat & maturity of the target weed - visual cues will differ a little. Generally, you will see a darkening/browning or leaves within 24-48 hours. As the weed loses its ability to Photosynthesise, the leaves will shrivel up and the plant with shrink down and die over the coming days/weeks (depending on the species).  

You should expect to see some darkening of the turf thatch (This is the iron staining) and potentially some tip burn (darkening at the tips of the turf). This is only temporary and the turf will recover quickly. 

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