There isn't one process & each job is customized to meet the environmental conditions.
Seeding can combine Slit/Sliceseeding, Aeroseeding, Topdressing & Seeding or Dormant Seeding.
All Seed is Microbialy inoculated with Mycorrhizae and other Bio Fertilizers & Stimulants, including a follow-up treatment.
Why Seed?
Seeding is a fantastic way of repairing an existing lawn, growing a new one or just adding new species to an existing lawn.
Seeding has numerous benefits. Different species like Perennial Rye Grass & Fescues differ in their preferred growing environments and will do better in shaded areas as well as being more resilient to environmental factors like Drought and Pest Pressure.
Kentucky Bluegrass (commonly used on Sod farms) is known for its desired dark colour, ability to spread & repair rapidly as well as the ability to resist and rebound from cold temperatures during the winter. It is however a little more maintenance heavy with its nutrient and water requirements and is quicker to suffer in high heat and drought conditions. It also requires more sunlight and does not do well in shady locations.
Perennial Rye Grass and Fescues, (depending on the cultivar… there are hundreds!) can do better in shady locations as well as full sun, require less water and have better resistance to biotic stressors like pest infestations.
They however are mostly clumping-type grasses and do not spread as aggressively or in the same way as Kentucky Bluegrass and therefore require re-seeding when damage occurs. For the longest time – they could not survive our winters (in Nova Scotia) however as our winters have become milder and new, more cold-resistant cultivars have been introduced – they are starting to be more widely introduced.
Having a hybrid lawn allows it to thrive long into the year and provides resilience against Biotic/Abiotic stressors as well as lowering water requirements, Fertilization, and pesticide applications.
Methods of Seeding
Seed germination requires three important components: Heat, Oxygen & Water and upon germination, it needs to be in direct contact with a growing medium, (Soil).
If a seed consistently receives these three things – it will germinate anywhere (I had grass growing in the bed of my truck last year!)
Be aware, the seed will not germinate until the soil reaches a consistent temperature of 15C.
Once the seed has germinated, the soil provides access to moisture, nutrients, and oxygen availability for the seed to develop and start rooting. It also assists in germination, as it retains and holds moisture and heat.
The key to seeding is knowing how to accomplish this in varying conditions such as uneven surfaces, slopes etc.
Sliteeding
Slitseeding for example drops seeds out of a hopper and slices grooves into the soil, embedding the seed into the soil. This is an incredibly effective method of seeding and is widely used across the industry. Being able to implant seed directly into the seed protects against seed washing away, being blown away or being eaten by birds and other animals. The seed is in direct contact with the soil, trapping moisture and giving it a safe haven to germinate.
One boundary of Slitseeding is that it requires a relatively flat surface to be effective. The individual blades do not adjust their height during operation to make soil contact at low points and therefore often, the seed will just lay on the surface of the soil – susceptible to the elements. This is only really a major issue on very uneven surfaces.
Slit seeders also cannot operate on slopes very effectively. It does depend on the grade but for the most part, slopes need a different method.
Uneven Ground
For uneven ground, a combination of methods will work more effectively.
For example, taking a core aerator over the area in multiple directions first will pull up cores and create holes. If you then go over the area with a Slitseeder, it will drop seed directly into the aeration holes (Creating that safe haven with soil contact, moisture, and oxygen) and then churn up the pulled cores, creating a topdressing that will cover any seed that doesn’t get implanted.
Slopes
Slopes are a bit of a challenge due to runoff and moisture/nutrient retention. It’s very dependent on the location but heavily core aerating a hill (doing overlapping, vertical – up and down passes) will create holes for seed to drop into. The seed would be applied via a hand or walk-behind, manual spreader into the aeration holes that prevent the seed from washing away or being eaten by animals.
You can increase the efficacy of this process by also topdressing with a thin layer of compost, garden soil or peat moss.
Dormant Seeding
Dormant Seeding is the process of sowing seed when soil temperatures are not optimal for germination (below 15C).
This is a good option for large areas where it would be impractical to supply water over the entire area with the frequency required for germination.
Basically, the seed would be pulled down into the soil by the freeze-thaw cycle and would absorb moisture, effectively priming it for growth as soon as the soil heats up.
Generally, you might get a little less success rate doing it this way as some of the seed might blow/wash away or be pulled down too deep to grow out. It does however negate the need for intense watering and will give you new growth earlier into the season.
I would steer away from seeding more than a couple of months prior to the growing season due to the potential for the seed to rot.
All new seeding projects require an in-person consultation to create a plan based on a soil and location evaluation.
Where I already handle the maintenance of a lawn - I can provide an immediate quote without consultation for small or large repairs.
Consultations are $75+tax (refundable upon service purchase)
All projects include:
Treatment One - At Seeding
Seed Inoculation with strains of Bacteria and Mycorrhizae Fungi along with Bio-Stimulants and Bio-Fertilizers. The Bacteria (Gluconacetobacter Diazotrophicus) is a free-living (Endophytic) Nitrogen Fixing species that grow within the seed and then moves up into the leaf as it grows. Endo Mycorrhizae Fungi grow within the roots of the plant, symbiotically.
They help develop vast root and hyphae networks, increase nutrient access, disease defence and a host of other benefits.
I also include Kelp, Molasses, Humic Acid and a granular compost-based slow-release fertilizer.
Follow up Treatment
Weed Control & Bio-Stimulant/Fertilizer application.
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Weed control applications are FULL AREA broadcast - not spot treatments. This means that any susceptible type of weed or weedy grass will be affected.
Applications also include Fall Fertilization, Liquid Calcium, Humates, Kelp, Bio-Fertilizers, Silica, natural surfactants and a micronutrient package.